Auckland

New Zealand's largest city, a harbour metropolis built across a field of nearly fifty volcanoes on the narrow isthmus the Māori call Tāmaki Makaurau, the place desired by many. Around the Waitematā Harbour the old port has become a city of glass, but the layers survive: the restored Victorian warehouses of Britomart and the grand Ferry Building on the waterfront; the colonial commercial heart in the Queen Street valley, with its atmospheric picture palace, its Victorian university and Albert Park laid over an early army barracks; and, up the hill, Parnell, the oldest suburb, and the Auckland Domain, a great park on a volcano crowned by the war memorial museum and its Māori and Pacific treasures. Read the harbour city, from the pā on the maunga to the sails on the gulf, at your own pace.