
Old City: The Room Where the Country Was Argued
85 min · 1.8 km · easy
Philadelphia food is immigrant and working-class at its root. The cheesesteak and the roast pork sandwich came off South Philadelphia street corners, the hoagie off a World War I shipyard, the soft pretzel from the Pennsylvania Dutch who settled the surrounding farm country, the water ice from Italian immigrants. The famous tourist rivalry between two cheesesteak corners hides a truth locals will happily tell you, that they eat somewhere else, and the whole story sits under one roof at Reading Terminal Market and along one street at the Italian Market. This guide covers the dishes worth seeking out and where the food culture actually lives, and it pairs naturally with a slow walk on one of our Philadelphia self-guided tours.
The dishes to seek out
The cheesesteak, and where locals actually go. The Philadelphia icon: thin-sliced grilled beef with melted cheese on a long roll, ordered in the local shorthand (wit or witout onions, and choosing Cheez Whiz, provolone, or American). The two famous corners, Pat King of Steaks and Geno Steaks, face each other in South Philadelphia and are the tourist stop; Pat chops its steak thin, Geno leaves it in thicker chunks. But ask a Philadelphian and most will send you elsewhere. John Roast Pork is repeatedly named the best cheesesteak in the city, on a crusty seeded roll. Angelo Pizzeria in the Italian Market, Dalessandro in Roxborough, and Jim on South Street are the other names locals cite. The honest verdict: a good neighborhood shop usually beats the neon.
The roast pork sandwich. For many natives this, not the cheesesteak, is the real Philadelphia sandwich. Thin-sliced slow-roasted pork on an Italian roll with sharp provolone and garlicky greens. Two schools: Tommy DiNic at Reading Terminal Market piles it with broccoli rabe and was once named the best sandwich in America, while John Roast Pork, an institution at a South Philadelphia triangle since 1930, uses sauteed spinach on a sesame roll. Order both if you can.
The hoagie. The local word for a cold submarine sandwich, traced to Italian workers at the Hog Island shipyard during World War I. Sliced cured meats, provolone, lettuce, tomato, onion, and oil on a long seeded Italian roll, many of them baked at Sarcone in the Italian Market since 1918. Simple, and done right, superb.
The soft pretzel. A Pennsylvania Dutch legacy, the Philadelphia soft pretzel has its own shape, a doubled figure-eight rather than a single loop, and a chewy rather than crunchy texture, eaten warm with yellow mustard. Look for them at market stalls and street carts, freshly rolled.
Water ice. Philadelphia name for Italian ice: a smooth, fruit-flavored frozen dessert, softer than a snow cone, brought by Italian immigrants and sold from corner stands all summer. Lemon and cherry are the classics.
Where the food culture lives
Hear a stop from this walk
Old City Hall and the Second Bank: The Institutions the Room Built
Reading Terminal Market. The covered Victorian food hall that opened in 1893 under a former train shed, and the single best place to graze. It is where Pennsylvania Dutch farm-country stalls sit beside vendors who arrived last decade: Tommy DiNic for roast pork, Miller Twist for hand-rolled pretzels, Bassett for ice cream (an original 1893 merchant), Beiler for doughnuts. Read the market as the city pantry in our Reading Terminal companion piece.
The 9th Street Italian Market. The oldest continuously operating outdoor market in America, running along South 9th Street since the 1880s, and still called Italian even as the awnings now read in Italian, Spanish, and Vietnamese. Buy seeded bread at Sarcone, cheese and cured meat at the original Di Bruno Bros. (since 1939), a cannoli, then a taco or a bowl of pho a few doors down. Walk the 9th Street Italian Market tour and it doubles as your grazing route; the Italian Market companion piece explains how the name outlasted the Italians.
The two markets together. Reading Terminal and the Italian Market are the two poles of Philadelphia food geography. The Italian Market is an outdoor street that records immigration in its storefronts, block by block. Reading Terminal is an indoor hall that records the city regional and institutional food under one roof. Walk both and you have the full map.
The founding city, for context. All of this immigrant food landed in a city planned in 1682 to feed itself from the surrounding country, and forever filling up with people and foods its founders never imagined. That frame runs through our founding-city thesis, and the Old City tour walks the rooms where the argument over who belongs began.
Eat as you walk
The best way to work through this list is on foot, one district at a time. Pair a morning in Old City with a roast pork at Reading Terminal, an afternoon at the Italian Market with a hoagie from Sarcone bread and a water ice, and an evening near Rittenhouse with a neighborhood cheesesteak. Route your day with the one day in Philadelphia itinerary, plan the practical side with the Philadelphia travel guide, and browse all Philadelphia tours. Every tour is free to start, with roughly the first 30% of stops unlocked before an optional purchase.
Frequently asked questions
- What food is Philadelphia known for?
- Philadelphia is best known for the cheesesteak, thin-sliced beef with melted cheese on a long roll, and for its lesser-known but locally beloved roast pork sandwich, thin-sliced roast pork with sharp provolone and garlicky greens. Beyond those it is a hoagie town (the local word for a submarine sandwich), a soft-pretzel town, and the home of water ice, the fruit-flavored Italian ice sold across the city in summer. Two markets anchor the food scene: Reading Terminal Market and the 9th Street Italian Market.
- Where do locals actually eat cheesesteaks in Philadelphia, not Pat's or Geno's?
- Pat's King of Steaks and Geno's Steaks, the two neon-lit rivals facing each other in South Philadelphia, are the famous tourist stop, and many Philadelphians will tell you the best cheesesteak is elsewhere. John's Roast Pork, better known for pork, is frequently named the best cheesesteak in the city. Other local favorites cited again and again include Angelo's Pizzeria in the Italian Market, Dalessandro's in Roxborough, and Jim's on South Street. The honest answer is that a good cheesesteak from a neighborhood shop usually beats the famous corner.
- What is the Philadelphia roast pork sandwich?
- The roast pork sandwich is what many Philadelphians consider the real local sandwich, ahead of the cheesesteak. It is thin-sliced slow-roasted pork piled on an Italian roll with sharp provolone and garlicky greens. There are two schools: Tommy DiNic's at Reading Terminal Market uses broccoli rabe and was once named the best sandwich in America, while John's Roast Pork in South Philadelphia, an institution since 1930, uses sauteed spinach on a sesame roll. Both are essential.
- What is the difference between a hoagie and a cheesesteak?
- A hoagie is the Philadelphia word for a cold submarine sandwich: sliced cured meats, cheese, lettuce, tomato, onion, and oil on a long Italian roll. The name traces to Italian workers at the World War I shipyard on Hog Island. A cheesesteak is a hot sandwich of thin-sliced grilled beef and melted cheese on a similar roll. Both live on the same seeded rolls, many of them from Sarcone's Bakery in the Italian Market.
- What is Philadelphia water ice?
- Water ice is Philadelphia name for what other Northeastern cities call Italian ice: a smooth, fruit-flavored frozen dessert, softer than a snow cone, brought to the city by Italian immigrants. It is a summer staple sold from corner stands and shops across South Philadelphia and beyond, most famously in lemon, cherry, and mango.
Ready to experience it?

Old City: The Room Where the Country Was Argued
85 min · 1.8 km · easy
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