Sydney in Sandstone: Reading a Convict City From Cove to Harbour

Sydney is best read as a story told in sandstone, from a convict beginning at a harbour cove to the white shells and the steel arch that made the city famous. In January of seventeen eighty-eight the First Fleet landed at Sydney Cove, called Warrane by the Gadigal, the traditional owners who had lived on this harbour for tens of thousands of years, and Governor Arthur Phillip's party raised the British flag over what became a penal colony. What convict hands then cut, carved, and laid became the city: the lanes of The Rocks, the ceremonial spine of Macquarie Street, and the sandstone seat where a governor's wife could watch the water. Walk those routes at your own pace and you read one continuous argument in stone, laid over older Gadigal ground and over a convict foundation.

The through-line: read the city in the rock it was cut from

Sydney does not hide its origins so much as pave over them, and the pleasure of walking it slowly is watching the older layers surface. Two self-guided walks trace the same argument from two angles. The Rocks to the Opera House: The Town Sydney Kept Trying to Knock Down reads the first town beneath the tourist quarter, then follows the shore round the cove to the harbour's two modern emblems. Macquarie Street and Hyde Park: The Governor's Town reads the civic street a governor built to turn a prison camp into a city. Between them, Royal Botanic Garden and Mrs Macquarie's Chair follows Farm Cove from the colony's failed first farm to the Chair. Together they carry you from seventeen eighty-eight to the twentieth century without ever leaving the shore of one cove. For the full set of routes, see the Sydney walking tours hub.

The convict town, cut by hand

The Rocks grew as the convicts' and sailors' quarter on the rocky western shore of Sydney Cove, its houses, lanes, and steps cut from the sandstone by convict hands. The crooked pedestrian ways of Nurses Walk and the lane nicknamed the Suez Canal still follow the convict-era street pattern almost exactly, the arteries of the first town worn by the people packed together here. Cadmans Cottage, built in eighteen fifteen and eighteen sixteen, is one of the very oldest surviving houses in the city, and its namesake John Cadman was transported as a convict for horse theft before rising to run the governor's boats as coxswain. A convict past was not a dead end in this town; it was where most people started.

The hardest stone on the walk is the Argyle Cut, a canyon driven straight through the sandstone ridge. Convict chain gangs began it around eighteen forty-three, three years after transportation to New South Wales had ceased, and the sight of men labouring in chains through the town unsettled residents. The government abandoned it half finished, and for years the half-dug cut served as a quarry. Sydney Municipal Council completed it in eighteen fifty-nine, reportedly with explosives. Convicts started it and council labour finished it, but the walls no longer show whose hands did what: they were cut again around nineteen twelve and widened and straightened in nineteen thirty-one.

The oldest ground of all belongs to the Gadigal. At Sydney Cove the tour holds two truths at once: the founding of a colony, and the smallpox epidemic of seventeen eighty-nine, which Governor Phillip, going on what Bennelong told him, estimated had killed about half the people around the harbour. Bennelong also reported that his friend Colebee's clan had been left with three people. At Dawes Point, called Tar-ra, a Royal Marines lieutenant and astronomer named William Dawes worked with a young Aboriginal woman named Patyegarang to record the Sydney language in his notebooks in seventeen ninety and seventeen ninety-one, the single most important early record of that language, notebooks that survive today.

The civic street, order laid over coercion

If The Rocks is the raw first town, Macquarie Street is the deliberate second act. After eighteen ten Governor Lachlan Macquarie set out to give the penal settlement the form of a real city, and his unlikely instrument was Francis Greenway, a man transported for forgery whom Macquarie made his architect and then pardoned. Greenway's Hyde Park Barracks, built between eighteen seventeen and eighteen nineteen to house male convicts, was inscribed in twenty ten as one of eleven Australian Convict Sites on the UNESCO World Heritage List. His Saint James' Church, consecrated in eighteen twenty-four and the oldest church building in the City of Sydney still used for its original purpose, was begun as a courthouse in eighteen nineteen; at the suggestion of Commissioner Bigge, sent from London to inquire into the colony, it became a church instead. A convicted forger designed the colony's finest buildings, and a courthouse became a place to pray.

The street's central scandal is the hospital Macquarie paid for not with money but by granting the three men who built it a three-year monopoly on importing spirits, which earned it the lasting nickname the Rum Hospital. Its center block is gone, but its two outer wings each grew into something remarkable. The north wing became Parliament House of New South Wales, where the Legislative and Executive councils began meeting in eighteen twenty-nine; the Parliament calls it Australia's first parliament. The south wing became The Mint, which Museums of History NSW calls the first branch of the Royal Mint outside London; it began coining in eighteen fifty-five, turning gold from the New South Wales rushes into the Queen's own coin. A wing built to hold sick convicts learned to make a colony's laws; another learned to make its money. Toward the harbor end of the street, the State Library of New South Wales, which the Library calls the oldest continuously operating library in Australia, keeps the colony's paper memory, First Fleet journals among it.

The harbour, and the two emblems of struggle

The Rocks walk ends by carrying the story into the twentieth century, round the head of the cove at Circular Quay to the Opera House. Circular Quay itself is barely natural ground: it was built in stages between eighteen thirty-seven and eighteen fifty-five over tidal mudflats, its seawall largely raised by convict labour, over the Tank Stream that first watered the colony, which still runs beneath it in a stone culvert.

Both emblems are monuments to struggle. The Sydney Harbour Bridge, the single steel arch Sydney calls the Coathanger, was designed under John Bradfield and built by the British firm Dorman Long, its two half-arches meeting over the water in nineteen thirty. It opened on the nineteenth of March, nineteen thirty-two, in the depths of the Great Depression, in a piece of pure political theatre: Captain Francis de Groot of the New Guard rode up on horseback and slashed the ribbon with a sword before Premier Jack Lang could cut it. The Sydney Opera House, on Bennelong Point, was designed by the Danish architect Jorn Utzon, who won the international competition on the twenty-ninth of January, nineteen fifty-seven. The puzzle of its billowing shells had been solved by early nineteen sixty-two: every shell became a section of one single sphere. Amid conflict with the government, Utzon resigned in nineteen sixty-six and left Australia, never returning to see it finished. Peter Hall, with Lionel Todd and David Littlemore, completed the interiors, and Queen Elizabeth the Second opened it on the twentieth of October, nineteen seventy-three. UNESCO inscribed it as a World Heritage Site in two thousand and seven.

Past the Opera House, the path round Farm Cove through the Royal Botanic Garden leads to Mrs Macquarie's Chair, a seat cut into the sandstone for Elizabeth Macquarie, wife of the governor, at the end of the road he finished in eighteen sixteen. From this seat the shells and the arch line up in a single frame, the classic postcard of Sydney. It is the perfect place to close the sandstone story: a seat cut in the rock two centuries ago, looking out at one monument that drove its architect from the country and another that rose in a depression, both standing on Gadigal Country taken in seventeen eighty-eight. Read the convict town, the Aboriginal harbour, the Georgian civic street, and the sails, all at your own unhurried pace.

Sources

• State Library of New South Wales, First Fleet journals and the arrival at Sydney Cove: https://www.sl.nsw.gov.au/collection-items/first-fleet-journals
• UNESCO World Heritage List, Australian Convict Sites (including Hyde Park Barracks): https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/1306/
• UNESCO World Heritage List, Sydney Opera House: https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/166/
• Dictionary of Sydney, The Rocks and Macquarie Street entries: https://dictionaryofsydney.org/
• Museums of History New South Wales, Hyde Park Barracks and Susannah Place: https://mhnsw.au/
• David Collins, An Account of the English Colony in New South Wales (1798), and Governor Phillip's despatch of 13 February 1790: the arrival at Botany Bay and the 1789 smallpox epidemic.
• NSW State Heritage Register, Argyle Cut, and Sydney Water, Tank Stream heritage fact sheet.
• NSW State Heritage Inventory, St James' Church (2423799, 5054947) and Mint Building and Hyde Park Barracks Group (5045802): the courthouse stone, the consecration, and the Rum Hospital agreement.
• NSW State Heritage Register, Royal Botanic Garden and Domain (5045297): Mrs Macquarie's Road, finished in 1816, to Mrs Macquarie's Chair.
• Parliament of NSW, Visit Parliament, and State Library of NSW, History of the Library.
• Sydney Opera House, Our Story: the spherical solution and the completion by Hall, Todd and Littlemore: https://www.sydneyoperahouse.com/our-story