The Architecture of Kings

Best Time to Visit

Late afternoon into golden hour is ideal, so that you reach Wat Chaiwatthanaram and its riverbank as the sun drops and lights the western faces of the towers. If you prefer cooler air and thinner crowds, start in the early morning instead and simply return to the riverside at dusk. The dry, cooler months from roughly November through February are the most comfortable overall; the hot season from March to May is punishing at midday, and the monsoon months from June through October bring heavy afternoon downpours.

Pro Tips

• •Carry small cash in baht for temple entry: about twenty baht at Wat Na Phra Men and fifty baht at Wat Chaiwatthanaram, with the western island ruins and the riverside monastery generally free.
• •Time the walk so you reach the final riverside vantage at golden hour, the soft hour before sunset, when the low sun lights the western faces of the prangs and the river mirrors the silhouette.
• •Wear slip-on shoes, because you will remove them to enter the halls that still hold principal Buddha images, such as at Wat Na Phra Men.
• •Bring plenty of water and a hat: much of this walk, especially the reclining Buddha and the riverside temple, is fully exposed with almost no shade.
• •Plan the river crossing between the island and the west bank in advance, whether by bridge, local boat, or a short ride, since the Chao Phraya separates the last two stops from the first three.
• •Go slowly and skip freely: each stop stands on its own, so if the heat builds, rest in shade and rejoin the walk at whichever temple still pulls you.