The Art of the Beer Garden

The Art of the Beer Garden

A walk through Munich, Germany that reads a Bavarian genius no other city shares: the art of drinking beer outdoors, under chestnut shade, on ground that rulers opened, again and again, to everyone.

4.58|150 minutes|8.5 km|7 Stops

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Hofbräuhaus am Platzl: the historic state beer hall

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Hofbräuhaus am Platzl: the historic state beer hall
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Hofbräuhaus am Platzl: the historic state beer hall

The vaulted ducal court brewery on the Platzl, founded in the late fifteen hundreds and opened to the general public two centuries later, where the beer-hall idea took its enclosed, communal form.

Viktualienmarkt: the open-air market and its beer garden
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Viktualienmarkt: the open-air market and its beer garden

A daily open-air food market with a painted maypole, moved here from Munich's main square by royal decree in the early eighteen hundreds, and home to a beer garden woven into the stalls.

The Reinheitsgebot: the Bavarian Beer Purity Law of fifteen sixteen
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The Reinheitsgebot: the Bavarian Beer Purity Law of fifteen sixteen

A thematic pause on the fifteen-sixteen decree that limited beer to water, barley, and hops, issued jointly by two Bavarian dukes and still shaping the beer in every mug around you.

Englischer Garten and the Chinesischer Turm beer garden
4

Englischer Garten and the Chinesischer Turm beer garden

A vast royal hunting ground opened as a public park in the late seventeen hundreds, and the pagoda-shaped Chinese Tower whose beer garden seats thousands beneath the trees.

The Eisbachwelle: the standing wave surfers ride downtown
5

The Eisbachwelle: the standing wave surfers ride downtown

A permanent standing wave on an artificial channel at the park's southern edge, surfed since the early nineteen seventies and a celebrated everyday spectacle in the middle of the city.

Theresienwiese: the meadow where Oktoberfest began
6

Theresienwiese: the meadow where Oktoberfest began

A wide public field named for a princess, where the first Oktoberfest celebrated a royal wedding in eighteen ten, watched over by the bronze Bavaria statue and the Hall of Fame.

The Munich breweries and the cellar-and-chestnut origin
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The Munich breweries and the cellar-and-chestnut origin

A closing look at the six great Munich breweries and the eighteen-twelve royal compromise, born from riverbank cellars and chestnut shade, that made the shared bench the whole point.

Best Time to Visit

Late spring through early autumn, when the chestnut trees are in full leaf and the beer gardens are open, is the heart of this walk. A late morning or early afternoon start on a weekday gives you softer crowds at the Hofbräuhaus and the Viktualienmarkt and warm light for the Englischer Garten and the Eisbach wave. Weekends and the Oktoberfest weeks in late September bring the biggest crowds; if you want the meadow and the market quiet, avoid them. Winter still rewards the walk indoors and along the park paths, though many beer gardens close for the season.

Pro Tips

  • •Go early on a weekday if you want the Hofbräuhaus and the Viktualienmarkt calm, then let the crowds build behind you as you walk out toward the park.
  • •In a Munich beer garden you may bring your own food to the self-service benches and buy only the beer, so pack bread, cheese, or fruit from the Viktualienmarkt stalls for the Chinese Tower.
  • •Look for the shade of the horse-chestnut trees when you choose a bench; that canopy is the whole point of a Munich beer garden and stays cooler on a hot afternoon.
  • •Wear comfortable, sturdy shoes: the old town is cobbled and the park paths are long, so this level three-kilometre walk is easy on your feet only if they are well shod.
  • •At the Eisbach wave, watch from the bridge or the bank and give the surfers room; it is a celebrated spectacle to enjoy, not a spot to test yourself.
  • •Carry a little cash, since some market stalls and beer-garden counters move faster with coins and small notes than with cards.

Safety & Precautions

  • Munich's cyclists and trams move fast and nearly silently: look both ways before stepping into any bike lane or across tram tracks, and never linger on the rails, which can also catch a shoe or wheel on the cobbles.
  • At the Eisbach the water is cold and strong and the banks have low or no railings; swimming is not allowed and the current is dangerous, so keep back from the edge and simply watch.
  • If you ride the U-Bahn or S-Bahn or a tram between points, validate your ticket before boarding or at the platform; fare inspectors are frequent and fines are steep.
  • Treat the beer gardens and meadows with the same care you would any shared public space, keep a sober and respectful manner, and remember that on hot days shade and water matter more than another round.

Gallery

Hofbräuhaus am Platzl: the historic state beer hall
Viktualienmarkt: the open-air market and its beer garden
The Reinheitsgebot: the Bavarian Beer Purity Law of fifteen sixteen
Englischer Garten and the Chinesischer Turm beer garden
The Eisbachwelle: the standing wave surfers ride downtown
Theresienwiese: the meadow where Oktoberfest began
The Munich breweries and the cellar-and-chestnut origin

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