Eight stops on the first urban-planning experiment in North America. Penn's sixteen-eighty-two grid is still the working blueprint of Center City; City Hall on the original central square is its warden; the four corner squares are the surviving instruments of a laboratory that has been running for three hundred and forty-three years.
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Philadelphia City Hall: The Warden on Centre Square

The masonry building on Penn's original central square. Built 1871 to 1901 by John McArthur Jr. and Thomas U. Walter in the French Second Empire style; 548 feet to the top of the Penn statue; the world's largest free-standing masonry building. The 19th century put a thirty-year stone tower on the 17th-century green and turned the square into civic stone.

The intersection at the four cardinal entrances to City Hall. The geometric center of Penn's grid and the axis from which every other street descends. Broad runs north to south; Market (originally High Street) runs east to west. Both were laid wider than any colonial American street that preceded them.

The southwest corner square of the original Penn plan. Renamed in the nineteenth century after David Rittenhouse, the Philadelphia astronomer and clockmaker who became the first director of the United States Mint. The only one of the four corner squares whose orthogonal geometry and high-status residential character continued unbroken across three centuries.

The southeast corner square of the original Penn plan. Renamed in the nineteenth century after George Washington. Holds the unmarked graves of Revolutionary War soldiers (Continental and British), victims of the 1793 yellow fever epidemic, and African Americans buried in segregated potter's-field plots. The Tomb of the Unknown Revolutionary War Soldier stands at the center.

The food market that opened in 1893 in the train shed beneath the elevated Reading Railroad terminal. The market survived the post-1971 closure of the Reading Railroad, the postwar decline of downtown Philadelphia, and the rise of suburban supermarkets; it now anchors Center City foot traffic and integrates with the Pennsylvania Convention Center.

The 491-foot tower at Twelfth and Market completed in 1932 by George Howe and William Lescaze. An early International Style skyscraper in the United States and the first Modernist tower in Philadelphia. National Historic Landmark December 8, 1976. Now operates as the Loews Philadelphia Hotel; the original rooftop PSFS sign is still extant.

The twelve-story department-store building immediately west of City Hall. John Wanamaker opened his Grand Depot at this site in 1876; the present building was completed in 1911. The Grand Court inside holds the Wanamaker Organ, the largest functioning pipe organ in the world. Now operates as a Macy's.

The northwest corner square of the original Penn plan, renamed for James Logan, Penn's colonial secretary. Reshaped into a traffic circle in the 1910s and 1920s as part of Jacques Greber's Benjamin Franklin Parkway plan. The Swann Memorial Fountain at the center, dedicated 1924, was sculpted by Alexander Stirling Calder, son of Alexander Milne Calder (sculptor of the Penn statue on City Hall). The only one of the four corner squares whose orthogonal geometry was altered.
Spring and early fall are the easiest months on the corridor. Late April through early June, the corner squares are in full leaf and Rittenhouse runs cool under its tree canopy; mid-September through late October, the same trees turn and the light at Logan Square in the afternoon is the clearest of the year for reading the Penn statue six blocks back down the Parkway. Summer days are humid and the City Hall plaza is exposed, but the early evening from about six o'clock onward is one of the best times to read the masonry tower against a softer sky. Winter mornings are uncrowded; January and February read the grid cleanly with the trees bare, and the seam between Penn's seventeenth-century plan and the twentieth-century skyscrapers along North Broad is most legible without summer foliage. Weekday mornings before about ten are the quietest at City Hall and on the Walnut Street walk between Rittenhouse and Washington. The Reading Terminal Market is busiest between eleven and two; arrive before eleven or after two if you want room to walk the aisles.
Go deeper on what you'll see, hear, and walk through.







