The small Aegean town that inherited the afterlife of Ephesus, once one of the greatest cities of the classical world. Walk the marble streets and the great theatre of the ancient metropolis, then climb Ayasuluk hill to the basilica of Saint John and the fourteenth-century Isa Bey Mosque, and finish at the single column put back up in the marsh where the Temple of Artemis, one of the seven wonders, once stood. A whole ancient world in a day, on foot.