Seven stops on the Fourvière hill. Two thousand years of one civic-religious function performed first by Romans, then by Christians, then by a nineteenth-century basilica built atop the original Roman forum. Two and a third kilometres. The textbook specimen of an imperial provincial capital, read across the dynasties and across the religions, on a single hill above the Saône-Rhône confluence.
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Esplanade de Fourvière: The Topographic and Dynastic Frame

Panoramic esplanade adjacent to the basilica at the summit of the Fourvière hill, the highest publicly accessible point on the hill and the original site of Lucius Munatius Plancus's forty-three BCE Roman foundation. The Roman provincial forum, the *forum vetus,* stood at this elevation. Views east-northeast to the Saône-Rhône confluence and across to the Croix-Rousse; views south-west to the Mont Pilat range from which the longest aqueduct descended.

Roman theatre cut into the Fourvière hillside, begun ca. fifteen before the common era under Augustus, expanded under Hadrian in the second century to a final diameter of one hundred and eight metres and a capacity of about ten thousand seats. The largest of Lugdunum's two Roman theatres. Inscribed within UNESCO World Heritage listing eight hundred and seventy-two.

Smaller Roman theatre built in the early to mid-second century CE, likely under Hadrian. Diameter seventy-three metres; capacity around three thousand seats. Roofed when built; used for poetry recitations, musical performances, and rhetorical contests. One of only two surviving Roman two-theatre pairs in Gaul, the other at Vienne.

Gallo-Roman museum designed by Bernard Zehrfuss between nineteen sixty-nine and nineteen seventy-five, inaugurated fifteenth of November nineteen seventy-five. Unsurfaced reinforced concrete, intentionally buried into the hillside; central spiral ramp inspired by the Guggenheim in New York. Houses the Claudian Tables and the Coligny calendar. Wikidata Q five zero nine.

Hillside terrace overlooking the south-west approach to Fourvière along which the four aqueducts of Lugdunum arrived. The longest, the Aqueduc du Gier, ran eighty-six kilometres from Mont Pilat. The best-preserved section at Chaponost retains seventy-two of the original ninety-two arches in opus reticulatum, a Roman hydraulic technique rarely found outside Italy.

Archaeological garden preserving the foundations of a fourth-century Christian funerary basilica built directly atop a Gallo-Roman necropolis and on the foundations of a Roman mausoleum, possibly that of Justus of Lyon. Excavated nineteen seventy-one to nineteen seventy-four and nineteen seventy-eight to nineteen eighty.

Nineteenth-century basilica built eighteen seventy-two to eighteen eighty-four by Pierre Bossan, completed after his death by Sainte-Marie Perrin, consecrated eighteen ninety-six. Romanesque-and-Byzantine hybrid; four towers each forty-eight metres high representing the four cardinal virtues. Sits atop the original Roman *forum vetus* that gave the hill its name. Wikidata Q one seven zero five eight six.
Morning to early afternoon on a weekday, ideally Tuesday through Friday. The hillside paths are quietest before ten and the light on the theatre cavea reads best in mid-morning, around nine to eleven, when the sun crosses the slope at an oblique angle and the stepped seating throws clean shadows. Avoid Sunday morning, when the basilica services bring large crowds onto the esplanade and the funicular up from Vieux Lyon runs at capacity. The Musée Lugdunum is closed Mondays and on the first of January, the first of May, and the twenty-fifth of December.
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