Trace a thousand years of Vietnamese imperial history hidden beneath modern Hanoi, from an eleventh-century temple built to make scholars to the square where a new nation was declared.
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Temple of Literature: Van Mieu

An eleventh-century Confucian temple that became home to the country's first national academy and still holds the stone tablets recording centuries of examination graduates.

A tall Nguyen-era brick tower that survives precisely because it was useful, while the palaces around it were demolished and vanished.

The main southern gate of a thousand-year royal citadel, standing above the accidental two thousand two dig that struck the buried palaces.

A carved stone staircase guarded by carved dragons, all that remains above ground of the citadel's central throne hall.

A small wooden shrine rising on a single stone pillar from a pond, built to resemble a lotus and destroyed and rebuilt in the twentieth century.

The open square where independence was declared in nineteen forty-five, the newest layer laid directly over the oldest imperial ground.
Early morning is best, both for Hanoi's cooler air before the midday heat and because the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum only opens in the mornings and is closed on Mondays and Fridays. Aim to reach the Temple of Literature soon after it opens, around eight, and work north so you arrive at Ba Dinh Square while the mausoleum is still open. The drier, cooler months from roughly October to April are the most comfortable overall.
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