The North End: One Peninsula, Four Cities
The same six blocks held English colonial Boston, an early documented free Black community at Copp's Hill, the Irish Famine wave, an Eastern European Jewish shtetl, and the Italian wave that is still here. Seven stops. One stack, read aloud.
Start
St. Stephen's Church: Four Waves From One Corner
St. Stephen's Church: Four Waves From One Corner
The only Bulfinch-designed church still standing in Boston. New North Church 1804, Roman Catholic St. Stephen's from 1862, Kennedy family parish across the twentieth century.
Salem Street and Jerusalem Place: The Shtetl Under the Italian Street
Salem Street looks Italian today; a hundred and twenty years ago it was the spine of the Eastern European Jewish North End, more than twenty synagogues, kosher meat shops, pushcarts. Jerusalem Place is the surviving fragment.
Old North Church: The Substrate Underneath All Four Waves
Christ Church in the City of Boston, built 1723, oldest standing church in Boston. The building stayed; the four immigrant waves passed around it.
Copp's Hill: Sixteen Fifty-Nine and the Layer Underneath All of Them
Second oldest cemetery in Boston, founded 1659. The Mathers, Robert Newman the lantern-hanger, Prince Hall. The first Black-Boston beat of the tour.
Copp's Hill, Snowhill Street Side: The Community at the Base of the Hill
Looking down from the unmarked-grave side of the cemetery toward where the New Guinea community lived. Two hundred years of geographic continuity, mostly invisible from the marked stones.
The Prado: Curley's Nineteen Thirty-Three Reading of the Stack
A 1933 civic monument built by an Irish-American mayor on a Revolutionary-era theme by clearing Italian-wave tenements. The wave-stack reading the wave-stack.
Paul Revere House: One Building, Four Waves
Built c. 1680 by the merchant Robert Howard; Paul Revere's home 1770 to 1800; a sailor's boarding house and tenement after that; saved in 1902 by Revere's great-grandson; today a museum. The same building held every wave on the tour.
Best Time to Visit
Weekday mid-morning, Tuesday through Friday, nine to noon. The North End fills with restaurant crowds from late afternoon onward; Hanover Street and Salem Street can be loud through dinner service and especially loud during summer Italian-American festas in July and August, when the audio gets lost in the music. Old North Church and Copp's Hill are open during daylight hours. The Paul Revere House interior opens daily; reduced winter hours.
Pro Tips
- •Walk Tuesday through Friday mid-morning. Weekend evening crowds on Hanover Street drown out the audio
- •Jerusalem Place is a residential lane off Salem Street between Cooper Street and Prince Street; the street sign is small and easy to miss. Look on the east side of Salem as you walk north
- •The Old North Church interior is a separate ticketed visit. The audio is anchored at the Salem Street front and works without entering
- •Copp's Hill is two stops in this tour, both inside the same burying ground. Walk the eighty meters between them slowly; the Snowhill Street side is the load-bearing reveal
- •The Paul Revere House interior is the museum visit at the end. The audio stops at the facade; you can decide on site whether to pay admission and go in
- •Sacred Heart Italian Church at twelve North Square, across the square from the Paul Revere House, is referenced in the closing beat. It is a working parish; respect mass times
- •Stephen Puleo's The Boston Italians (Beacon Press, two thousand and seven) is the load-bearing secondary source for the Italian-wave material if you want to read forward from the tour
Safety & Precautions
- Hanover Street and Salem Street are narrow with cobble sections; watch for delivery trucks and active restaurant loading zones
- Copp's Hill is uphill from Old North Church; the Hull Street climb is short but steep on cobblestone
- The Snowhill Street side of Copp's Hill has uneven ground near the western wall; stay on the path, especially in wet weather
- Old North Church, St. Stephen's, and Sacred Heart are active houses of worship. Photograph the exteriors and respect any posted mass times before entering
- The Paul Revere House sits on a working public square. Mind pedicabs and tour buses dropping in from the Hanover Street side
Gallery
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