A sun-warmed Herzegovinian town on the Trebisnjica river, thirty kilometres from Dubrovnik, layered by Rome, Byzantium, the Ottomans, and the Habsburgs. A plane-tree square opens into a walled Ottoman old town of mosques and a clock tower, and the river leads out to a sixteenth-century bridge that was taken apart and moved stone by stone. A compact historic core made for walking, at your own pace.
