A country at the meeting point of the Mediterranean and the Balkans, where Rome, Byzantium, the Ottomans, and the Habsburgs each left their mark. In sunny Herzegovina, the town of Trebinje layers all of them along the old road from the Adriatic: a plane-tree square, a walled Ottoman old town of mosques and a clock tower, and a sixteenth-century Ottoman bridge that was moved stone by stone. Old towns built for walking, best read slowly. Go at your own pace and on your own schedule.
