
Lower Town and ByWard: The City Beneath the Capital
90 min · 2 km · easy
Ottawa food is a capital hybrid. This was a French-and-Irish market town, built to house the workers who dug the Rideau Canal, that grew into a bilingual, immigrant-shaped national capital. So its signature bites are not fine dining. They are inventions and adoptions: a fried-dough pastry born up the highway in Ontario and sold along the canal, a Lebanese street food the city loves so much it crowned itself the capital of it, the maple sweets of the season, and a market that has fed Ottawa since 1826. This guide covers what to seek out and where the food culture actually lives, and it pairs naturally with a slow walk on one of our Ottawa self-guided tours.
The dishes to seek out
The BeaverTail. Ottawa signature treat, and a genuine local invention. It is a flat, hand-stretched piece of fried dough, shaped like a beaver tail, topped with cinnamon sugar, chocolate hazelnut, or fruit. Grant and Pam Hooker first sold it at a fair in Killaloe, Ontario in 1978, from a family recipe, and the first permanent stands opened soon after in Ottawa, along the Rideau Canal and in the ByWard Market. Eating one warm and canal-side, especially while skating in winter, is an Ottawa rite of passage.
Shawarma. Ottawa quietly obsessive staple. The city has one of the highest concentrations of shawarma shops in North America, nearly two hundred, more than the major burger chains combined, and its council has informally embraced the title shawarma capital of Canada. The scene grew from Lebanese immigration from the 1970s onward, and a wrap with garlic sauce became the city late-night ritual. Everyone here has a favourite shop and will defend it. Order it wherever you find a line.
Poutine. The Quebec classic, hand in reach across the river, is everywhere in Ottawa: fries under cheese curds and hot gravy, best when the curds squeak. Look for it at market counters and pubs, sometimes gilded with pulled pork or, in the fall, a drizzle of maple.
Maple everything. This is Ontario and Quebec country, so maple runs through the sweet side of the menu: pure maple syrup, maple candy poured on snow at the winter festivals, maple butter, and maple on top of just about anything. It is the most Canadian souvenir you can carry home.
The Obama Cookie. In the ByWard Market, the bakery Le Moulin de Provence sells a maple-leaf shortbread cookie iced with the word Canada. When President Barack Obama visited Ottawa on February 19, 2009, he stopped in and bought some for his daughters, reportedly declaring I love this country. The bakery has sold them as Obama Cookies ever since, and they have become a small ByWard Market institution.
Where the food culture lives
Hear a stop from this walk
King Edward Avenue: The Closer
The ByWard Market. Laid out in 1826 to serve the canal workers, this is the oldest and busiest market district in the city, and the single best place to eat. Its blocks hold the shawarma counters, the BeaverTail and poutine stands, the sit-down restaurants, and Le Moulin de Provence with its Obama Cookie. Walk the ByWard and Lower Town district and it doubles as your route to lunch and dinner. The tour reads the market as the working-class half of a capital built as two cities glued together.
The Rideau Canal, in winter. When the Rideau Canal Skateway freezes into the world largest skating rink, BeaverTail stands and hot-chocolate huts line the ice from downtown to Dow's Lake. Skating and eating a warm BeaverTail is the quintessential Ottawa winter afternoon. Walk, or skate, the corridor with The Rideau Canal: A War That Never Came, which reads the canal as one piece of infrastructure that keeps changing jobs, most beloved now as a rink.
Across the river, Gatineau. A short walk or bus ride over the Ottawa River drops you in Quebec, where the food tilts more French and the poutine is on home ground. It is an easy add for an evening.
Eat as you walk
The best way to work through this list is on foot, one district at a time. Pair a morning on Parliament Hill with a market lunch, an afternoon along the canal with a BeaverTail, and an evening in the ByWard Market with shawarma and a maple-leaf cookie. Route your day with the one day in Ottawa itinerary, plan the practical side with the Ottawa travel guide, and browse all Ottawa tours. Every tour is free to start, with roughly the first 30% of stops unlocked before an optional purchase.
Frequently asked questions
- What food is Ottawa known for?
- Ottawa is best known for the BeaverTail, the fried-dough pastry born in nearby Killaloe, Ontario in 1978 and made famous at stands along the Rideau Canal and in the ByWard Market. It is also self-declared the shawarma capital of Canada, with nearly 200 shawarma shops shaped by Lebanese immigration. Round it out with poutine, maple syrup and maple treats, and the maple-leaf Obama Cookie from Le Moulin de Provence in the ByWard Market.
- What is a BeaverTail, and did it start in Ottawa?
- A BeaverTail is a flat, hand-stretched piece of fried dough, shaped roughly like a beaver tail, topped with cinnamon sugar, chocolate, or other sweets. It was first sold by Grant and Pam Hooker at a fair in Killaloe, Ontario in 1978, based on a family recipe, and the first permanent stands opened soon after in Ottawa, along the Rideau Canal and in the ByWard Market. Eating one canal-side, especially while skating in winter, is an Ottawa rite of passage.
- Why is Ottawa called the shawarma capital of Canada?
- Ottawa has one of the highest concentrations of shawarma shops in North America, nearly 200 of them, more than the major burger chains combined, and its city council has informally embraced the title shawarma capital of Canada. The scene traces to Lebanese immigration from the 1970s onward, and shawarma became the city late-night staple. A wrap with garlic sauce is a genuine local ritual, eaten by students, cab drivers, and bureaucrats alike.
- Where should you eat in Ottawa?
- Start in the ByWard Market, the 1826 market district that is the food heart of the city, for shawarma, BeaverTails, restaurants, and the Obama Cookie at Le Moulin de Provence. Along the Rideau Canal in winter, BeaverTail stands and hot chocolate line the skating route. For a French twist, cross the river to Gatineau in Quebec. And for maple, look for it in everything from candy to syrup on poutine.
Ready to experience it?

Lower Town and ByWard: The City Beneath the Capital
90 min · 2 km · easy
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