Read an entire colonial town as one artist's life work. This west-to-east ridge walk traces Aleijadinho, the celebrated and half-legendary sculptor of colonial Brazil, across the gilded churches of Ouro Preto, from the gold that funded them to the church where he lies buried.
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Basílica de Nossa Senhora do Pilar: The Gilded World He Was Born Into

The town's most dazzling gold interior, carved a generation before Aleijadinho, sets the scale for everything the walk will show.

A working court theatre from seventeen sixty-nine shows the worldly, ambitious Vila Rica that Aleijadinho carved in.

The father designed this church as his final work, and a soapstone portico traditionally attributed to the son marks the inheritance passing hand to hand.

In the Carmo churchyard, a former novices' house holds hundreds of home altars and, by tradition, once lodged the working master himself.

Aleijadinho designed and carved this church, his acknowledged masterwork, crowned by Mestre Ataíde's painted ceiling.

The father's church and Aleijadinho's burial place close the portrait on rest rather than triumph.
Morning is ideal, soon after the churches open around nine, when the low sun lights the soapstone facades and the steep cobblestone climbs are still cool. Weekdays are calmer than weekends. Try to avoid the mid-afternoon heat and the frequent afternoon rain of the summer months, roughly December to March.
Go deeper on what you'll see, hear, and walk through.





